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There were festivals around these occurrences.” Many of these pre-Christian festivals were Christianized as the church’s influence grew.

Although our menu has changed over the years, there are a couple of favorites that we all insist on, including my mother’s braised calamari and her tuna-tomato sauce, which is spicy and savory and, best of all, counts as two fishes because it has anchovies.

So they compromise, serving a meatless and fishless pasta course, mostly for the nieces, followed by fish for the rest of the family.

Maggie Debelius is Irish-American but she married into an Italian-American family and so celebrates the Feast of the Seven Fishes with her husband’s family.

Stir in the tuna (with a drizzle of the reserved oil), anchovies, capers and remaining 2 tablespoons parsley.

Cook sauce on medium-low heat for another 10 to 15 minutes, or until it has thickened in consistency and the flavors have come together.

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